July 12: Missoula, MT to Colfax, WA
282 Miles |
The day dawned bright blue in Missoula without a cloud in the sky. It was time for the ride I had
anticipated for several months since reworking Charlie's Missoula-Seattle route to
detour off the interstate. The Lewis & Clark Wild and Scenic Highway (Route 12) along the Lochsa
River through the Bitterroot Mountains and the Clearwater National Forest beckoned. This would
be a day for taking it slow and taking lots of what Marty (trying his best not to sound
derisive) calls "snapshots."
Clif, Charlie, and Marty were orginally scheduled to do the route with me. However, Marty
wanted to get to Seattle (which he has never seen) so that he could have his bike looked at.
Research indicates that the shimmy could be anything from bad wheel bearings to a steering
head problem. Charlie had been feeling a bit under the weather and figured that getting to
one place and resting was preferable to an additional night on the road. Clif was
ambivalent but finally decided to go with them straight across I-90 to Seattle/Renton.
After bidding them farewell, I began to load the bike. A guy and his son had a Gold Wing in
the motel parking lot and we started talking. He told me that Rt. 12 was the finest motorcycle
ride he had ever taken, and he rides all over the country. That really heightened my
expectations.
I headed out from Missoula. In addition to being a (difficult) part of Lewis & Clark's journey,
the route also goes
through Nez Perce country. These Native Americans got a pretty raw deal (as did so many) back
in the late 1800s. I took pictures of the signs to remind me of their story.
I soon left Montana and soon crossed into Idaho. Another new state for me. The time also
changed to Pacific time so I figured to buy an extra hour for my ride. I pulled in to the
Lolo Pass Vistor's Center to get some information. I watched a few minutes of a Ken Burns
documentary they were showing on Lewis & Clark. I'll try to find it on DVD when I get home.
Marty suggested the other day that we ought to pack fewer shirts and buy T-shirts of places that
we visit along the way. So I promptly bought a Lolo Pass T-shirt.
As I was leaving, I started talking to two riders from North Dakota who were on BMW dirt bikes.
They were guys about my
age and we talked about all sorts of things, including where I had lived when I was in ND back
in 1973-74. They seconded the idea that I was about to travel one of the finest roads around.
By the time we were finished, the whole time change hour had been eaten up!
If of the banes of motorcycling is a sign reading, "Construction Ahead - Loose Gravel"
then surely one of the great joys has to be an early sign on Rt. 12: "Winding Road Next 77 Miles."
The road itself was in great condition and the ride was simply incredible. The miles flew
by and if the camera hadn't been broken (long story) I know I would have spent hours stopping and taking
more pictures. As it is, these few pictures will have to do to give you some
idea of what it was like. No burned trees here; just mile after mile or lush green
pine forest. Throw in the picturesque Lochsa river further along and it
just doesn't get any better. No portfolio of pictures can capture the feeling of such a ride.
After the forest ends, the wheat fields start. The last 100 miles were through lush wheat. The
smell reminded me of Weis Bier. The ride ended in Colfax ("Home of the Bulldogs"). I pulled
in to the Wheatland Inn around 4:00pm. I had dinner and a beer at Bulldog Pizza.
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